![]() Fundamentally, the entire extrusion system is just better.Īll interaction with Hemera is from the top. Dual drive is an established concept within the industry (going all the way back to 2011 with Steves Extruder used on the SeeMeCNC H1) and it is clear that dual-drive provides considerably more grip when compared to single drive systems. When designing Hemera’ dual-drive hobbs, we took a ground-up approach starting with a specification of dual-drive, researching and testing material combinations and implementing our tooth profiles. Older Hemera's (pre Jan 21) had a dry-running system but we have since changed the material of the gears and also greased them for greater improved wear performance, see here for more details. For bearings we make use of an igus ® bushing and shielded ball-bearings. With the drive train being made from hardened stainless steel, we can maintain the operation of the Hemera gearbox. This enables the drivetrain to fit within the frame of a Nema 17 stepper motor - more on compactness in the next section. (Look familiar? You may remember this self-cleaning tooth profile in the Titan extruder.) Hemera drive gear closeup - individually CNC cut teethĪs a result of opting for an all-metal hardened stainless steel drivetrain, we were able to reduce the size of the gears. Sharp teeth - with a round bottomed profile - provide excellent grip and strongly resist filament debris wedging into the drive gear and in almost all cases it’s self-cleaning as any debris simply falls off the teeth. All the gears are hardened stainless steel. The secondary gear shaft is on a moveable, sprung idler which allows the user to adjust filament tension. We are able to push filament with up to 10kg of force. Dual Drive - Push Harderįor E3D Hemera, we opted for a dual-drive arrangement which provides a huge boost in grip over single drive systems. Thanks in advance for your understanding. ![]() If you see any instances of the old name hanging around please do let us know too. Please do excuse us if some of the content is slightly less polished than usual, it's been a long hard night. Therefore we've had to undergo a rapid unscheduled rebranding, and have settled on Hemera, a somewhat less fashionable Greek god, yet still in keeping with our other mythological names, and our first female one too. Unfortunately, we don't have the time or resources to resolve this through a long legal process and we just want to get on with making incredible extrusion systems. They objected to us naming our product after a Greek god from the Mycenaean era, as they feel that name belongs to them. Unfortunately, less than 24 hours before launch, we received a legal challenge from a company much larger than us, and with significantly more legal resources. Reattach the fan using x2 self-tapping screws.You're probably wondering why at the last minute everything that you were expecting to be called 'Hermes' is now called 'Hemera'. Make sure to check if the square nuts are still in place as you will have to undo the assembly later if one is missing at this stage.ĩ. Reattach the heatsink and fasten the two M3 x 20 screws. You may need to apply a little pressure on the idler arm to make sure the drive gear is seated correctly.Ĩ. Insert the new drive gear into the sink, ensure the bearings are pressed onto the shaft. ![]() To make this step easier ensure the tension is set to it's the lowest setting otherwise you will be fighting against spring pressure unnecessarily.ħ. Two views A and B are shown above, they represent the same step from two different viewing angles. ![]() Make sure to locate the spring in the channel highlighted in B. Slide the idler assembly back onto the dowel pin in the heatsink, if the dowel pin is in the motor side remove it and reinsert it into the sink. Press the idler hobb back into the idler gear making sure that hobb section is on the same side as the short pin housing.Ħ. Pop the Idler Hobb out of the Idler, using an Allen key, or small screwdriver to provide a lever-action makes this easier.ĥ. You will find it easier to complete this step with the idler tension set to it's lowest setting.Ĥ. Remove the x2 M3 x 20 heatsink screws, this should allow the heatsink to be removed from the motor. Undo the x2 self-tapping screws that fasten the fan and it should pull away from the heatsink.ģ. If you try this while still at temperature you will risk serious burns.Ģ. Unscrew the HotSide from the main body.Įnsure that the unit has completely cooled down to room temperature before attempting this. Replacement drivetrain gears can be purchased hereġ. Before you begin it's important to mention that you should try to avoid dropping the gears or removing any grease before assembly. ![]()
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